Fall into Valle de Guadalupe
by Steve Dryden
Now is the time for all good wine lovers to visit Guadalupe Valley in Mexico’s premier wine country. After a long hot summer, cooler temperatures have arrived and the large crowds have vacated the wine tasting rooms for the season. In addition, all the grapes have been harvested, and it’s a time for celebration and relaxation. If you’re looking for pleasant weather, intimate conversations with winery staff, winemakers and local wine enthusiasts, you might consider heading on down to the valley. Highway 3 coming off of the Scenic Highway 1 from Ensenada into the valley is still under construction with some minor delays, and with some serious road hazards. For example, due to the widening project the road shoulders are unmarked and some areas have drop-offs of several feet on the right side of the road. Daytime driving is quite safe ~ using caution, but do not attempt to drive here at night. In other words, come on down and spend the night at several new (affordable) lodging options and explore the many new surprises awaiting your arrival.
When I first moved to Guadalupe Valley several years ago there was only seven established wineries and a handful of moonlighters sneaking out from Ensenada to make limited quantities of “vino moonshine.” Today, there are about twenty wineries scattered about the valley, and many folks are making home-style wines of good quality. Several of the former “moonshiners” are now established artisan and boutique winery owners. Adding to our “silent revolution” in creating premium wines is the evolution of the wine school in El Porvenir and the new wine program now being offered at UBC in Ensenada. It’s been interesting and impressive watching all the growth and progress being made on almost every level in this emerging wine culture of Baja California Norte. Even members of the Kumiai Nation in the remote village of San Jose de la Zorra have joined the action with the creation of a new vineyard in hopes of suppling premium grapes to selected winemakers. In fact, there are so many new wineries, and winemakers now that we’re facing a shortage of grapes in the region.
The new road improvement taking place on Highway 3 will create a “mini-boom” as soon as it’s completed from El Sauzal through San Antonio de las Minas. And, with the recent paving of the new wine route from the village of Francisco Zarco to El Tigre ~ lucky wine lovers can explore access to nine wineries on a modern and comfortable new road. Gone are the days when I had to use super glue on my dentures when driving out to Bibayoff winery on a long and bumpy dirt road through the back country of Valle de Guadalupe. This alternative wine route has become popular with locals trying to escape the motor coach tour groups that have been invading the tasting rooms of the larger wineries and gives us “down home wine folks” more options to visit this lesser known wine country for some serious R&R during the peak summer season. I never thought I’d see these positive advancement in my lifetime and it’s been a real bonus with benefits for everyone in this region.
Lodging options in the valley has increased during the last several months with the addition of the budget-priced Plaza Fatima Hotel and with the completion of the upscale Hacienda Guadalupe. Budget travelers have discovered the simplicity and affordability of Plaza Fatima and use the savings from reduced room rates to purchase large quantities of wine while enjoying the privacy of their own rooms in comparison to a B&B. And, Hacienda Guadalupe has become an instant success with those seeking quality lodging, unsurpassed hospitality and personalized service. In addition, Hacienda Guadalupe is in the final stages of completing (January 2009) what will be the largest restaurant in the valley with seating for over 200 guests. The view from the dinning room and patio is stunning with magnificent wine country valley and sunset viewing. This classic hotel is popular for guests seeking privacy and comfort and has been the site of many wine country weddings, family reunions and special events. Their “makeshift” cafe on their terrance is producing some remarkable meals and offers a nice selection of local wines. One other new venue, Rancho Malagon bed and breakfast facility is one of the most charming settings in the valley. Centered in a courtyard that features a cantina, private kitchen and dinning area with fireplace is most attractive and addictive. Visitors can cook their own meals in the fully stocked kitchen or have a local chef cater to their gourmet culinary desires. A 36 inch plasma television with Direct TV satellite and original handmade furniture compliment the dinning area. Four deluxe room options are available to meet your specific needs. The suite named the “Grenache Suite” features one queen bed, large private bathroom and spacious living room area with sofa. This room also features a private patio looking out into the beautiful private gardens. The “Green Room” includes one queen size bed, private bathroom and balcony with a sitting area offering a majestic view of the mountain range. The “Blue Room” includes two full size beds with one private bathroom and balcony with sitting area featuring a view of the mountain range. Many guests rent the entire complex to host family, friends and clients. Be warned that one visit to this amazing B&B may be the beginning of a long term relationship with the ranch, the friendly Malagon family and their incredible wines.
The most striking improvement I’ve experienced this year has been found in the quality of the wines found throughout the region. Every winery seems to have made dramatic improvements in their wines! For example, Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon produced a premium wine that won a gold this year in the 16th International Wine Competition in Ensenada and their 2006 Reserva received 92 points from Wine Spectator magazine, which is one the highest ratings given for a Mexican wine so far. The new line of wines from Viña de Liceaga are all outstanding. Their 2007 Vinto Tinto is a palate pleasing blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, both varietals are grown in Valle de Guadalupe. This user-friendly table wine was released in mid-July after aging for nine months in American oak barrels, is a smooth red blend, medium bodied and easy to drink. Liceaga’s 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah (two years in new American oak barrels) with aromas of tobacco, violets, vanilla and coffee with flavors of black fruit, and bell pepper. Their 2005 Gran Reserva Merlot is an elegant blend of grapes grown in San Antonio de las Minas with 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc ~ aged in new French oak barrels ~ winning a Silver medal at the Los Angeles County Fair and a Gold medal in Spain this year. The most impressive wine I tasted this season is their new 2006 L ~ Selection #1, which is the Eduardo Liceaga Campos memorial wine. And, like Eduardo himself, this wine is a shinning star! A superb blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Merlot, aged for 20 months in new American oak ~ a connoisseurs delight.
Monte Xanic winery continues their production of legendary wines with several new premium releases. Their newest Malbec and Syrah are excellent wines. And, right across the street from Monte Xanic is the new Vinos Fuentes, a family owned Boutique winery, which features local grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Grenache wines at super-value pricing.
Bibayoff winery has created a new blend of Chenin Blanc and Colombard that won a gold medal at a recent food and wine pairing event in Ensenada. One of the most amazing transformations has come from Three Women winery. They’ve added a few new women winemakers with one “token” man to the team and are producing some very good wines. With the help of government low-interest loans these dynamic artisans have expanded their winemaking facility, cellar and wine production. They use the original cellar for tasting and to display their hand-painted ceramic tiles, thus becoming a destination for those wine lovers seeking artisan wine in an intimate setting with fun and user-friendly hosts. Wine industry giant, L.A. Cetto has recently introduced two new wines under their Sierra Blanc label, featuring the first “screw cap” wine bottles offered in Mexico. The new label offers two excellent wines, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Adobe Guadalupe Inn and Vineyards continues to provide high quality wines under the guidance of Mexican winemaker Hugo D’Acosta. Their Uriel 2007 Vino Rosado is a crowd-pleasing wine with a unique blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera and Moscatel. Don and Tru Miller, owners of Adobe Guadalupe will host an evening of wine and music featuring the Eugenio Toussaint Trio to benefit the local Red Cross. The concert begins at 4:00 p.m on Sunday November 16th. In addition to working with Adobe Guadalupe, Hugo and his wife Gloria continue to make outstanding wines at Casa de Piedra and Paralelo. In fact, you might want to keep your eyes on Gloria, her wines have a cult following for those enthusiasts who love premium artisan wine. Another local phenomena is Pau Pijoan of Viñas Pijoan who is quickly moving to the forefront of the artisan and boutique winemaking industry of Baja California Norte. His new release of 2006 Domenico showcases an excellent wine that is rich and elegant, with deep layers of flavor, perfectly balanced, with a long and graceful finish. This blend of seventy-five percent Grenache, fifteen percent Petite Sirah and ten percent Cabernet Sauvignon is artistically crafted from selected “old vines” grown in sandy soil of Valle de San Vicente. Pau continues to create superior wines under the guidance of Hugo D’ Acosta.
Jose Durand of Sinergi-vt is another rising star within Mexico’s wine culture. He’s the former winemaker for Pedro Domecq and is the current “consulting enologist at Viñedos Malagon. Furthermore he produces superior wine from his small winery facility in Ensenada. His 2007 Marella is 100% Sauvignon Blanc (made in stainless steel tanks - with no oak barrel aging) is a light, delicious and elegant white wine with a nice finish. This Sauvignon Blanc is one of the new wines from Baja California that is showing some serious promise, very similar in style and quality to the “world class” whites from New Zealand. In addition, his Coco Rose 2007 is an amazing and delightful blend of Granache and Muscato di Caneli. Two other notable wineries that are making excellent wines these days are Tres Valles Vitivinicola and Viñedos La Farga.
One important element in all the positive changes is that many locals from the valley are finding employee in the wine culture. The Baja California wine industry has brought much needed capital to the region, and is offering many employment opportunities for those who want to work in this industry. Another significant benefit is that Ensenada has become the food and wine capital of Mexico, and is attracting international, national and regional attention as a wonderful seaport community to visit. live in, or retire to!
This is the perfect time of year to explore the premier wine country of Valle de Guadalupe. There is so much going on with many artisan winemakers creating good wine. You’ll have to come on down and discover for yourselves, “the bottled treasures of delight” awaiting your wine loving palates. And, if you fall in love with this area, I’ve got a nice ten acre property for sale with a large shop, orchard, and horse enclosures, with an abundance of great water and plenty of room to grow grapes. Why not join Mexico’s silent revolution in creating high quality wine, or at least come down and enjoy the perfect weather and uncrowded wine tasting rooms that the Fall season has to offer.
Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Guadalupe Valley where he guides private and small group wine tours. He can be reached at your local Costa Baja Hotel Wine Country Tour.
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Article Originally Posted on Baja Times
