Viñedos Malagon: Finding Gold in Francisco Zarco
by Steve Dryden
Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon is a “hidden jewel” located in the village of Francisco Zarco in Valle de Guadalupe. This family owned 400 acre ranch, vineyards, winery, bed and breakfast gets a gold medal for hospitality, first class service, romantic ambiance, hidden location, and for creating fantastic wine. In fact, one of their three premium wines won a gold this year in the 16th International Wine Competition in Ensenada and their 2006 Reserva received 92 points from Wine Spectator magazine. Until recently this amazing private estate has been “a little known haven” for selected friends and members of the Malagon family whose relatives have owned the property for several generations. One would never have guessed that such a special ranch exists behind the village of Francisco Zarco where lucky guests experience a stunning setting with valley and mountain views, an abundance of natural beauty, blessed with wealth of peace and tranquility.
The ranch was originally a Russian homestead established in the early 1900’s by Molokan settlers. In 2000 Jose Luis Malagon purchased the ranch from relatives with the vision of creating premium wine crafted from old vine Grenache grapes planted over fifty years ago on his property. Over the years, with the help of his wife, children and friends the Malagons have created the perfect Baja California retreat and getaway complete with a hacienda-style compound featuring a family bar, dinning room with fireplace, and a four unit bead and breakfast complex. The ranch reflects the traditional values cherished by the Malagon family and showcases their respect for nature, conservation, preservation of the land and the Baja California ranch lifestyle. And, somehow their wines seem to capture that same essence via the expression of the old vine roots that are deeply woven into the native soil of the valley, transforming mature fruit into rich, complex wine that speaks volumes about the strength and determination of the abandoned vines, who waited patiently for decades for someone to discover their palate pleasing treasures. Thankfully two local “vino desperadoes” Nathan Malagon and Jose Luis Durant came to their rescue with lots of TLC, and the rest is now Baja California history in the making.
Nathan Malagon, ranch manager, dedicated host, and winemaker is the son of Jose Luis Malagon. His enthusiasm and passion for every aspect of the ranch operation is remarkable. He is among a handful of locals who fully understand and promote the old style of traditional California hospitality. Nathan spent much time growing up on the ranch among family, friends and nature, so when the opportunity presented itself, he felt that living on the ranch in a natural setting with unlimited possibilities was exactly what he had envisioned for himself. Today, he has taken his vision to superb levels of fruition by creating premium wine is a bed and breakfast setting with “world class” ambiance. Nathan came to Valle de Guadalupe armed with skills in traditional hospitality, knowledge in nursery and landscape technology, and experience in the food and wine industry gained by working at Wolf Gang Pucks Cafe Express in Orange County. The Austrian-born Puck is famous for restaurants like Spago, the Hollywood restaurant he opened in 1982, and other high-end restaurants in San Francisco and Las Vegas. The Puck Express concept was originally designed for airports, college campuses and amusement centers. The restaurants were centered around a large, open pizza oven, and also offered catering and takeout. Nathan was exposed to the culinary arts and some of the world’s best wines while working with Puck.
One of the first winemakers in Valle de Guadalupe to explore the old vine Grenache grapes at Rancho Malagon was Jose Luis Durant, Chilean oenologist, then the winemaker for Pedro Domecq. Soon, a relationship developed between Durant, the Malagon family and the vineyards that continues to this day. Jose is the current winemaker and consultant for Viñedos Malagon. He came to México in the year 2000 to work at the Casa Pedro Domecq vineyards and now owns his own wine company: Sinergi-VT. His natural talent for creating superb wines from Mexico has made him well known and much respected in the region. In addition to working for Viñedos Malagon, he works for local wineries Agrifolia and Norte 32, and owns a partnership in the winery: Vinos y Terruños, Icaro.
Nathan and Durant have teamed-up to create some awesome wines. Nathan is so intensely focused on creating high quality wine that he sleeps in the winery during fermentation so he can push down the caps himself and monitor every step of the process! Jose Luis Durant is one of Mexico’s top creative wine artisans. These two young and ambitious “ vino desperadoes” have created three phenomenal wines. Their 2006 Equua is a magical blend of 70% old vine Grenache and 30% Petite Sirah, aged in oak barrels for 12 months, retails for $350 ps. They’ll be releasing the 2007 Equua in about one month with a slightly different blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Petite Sirah, retails for $350 ps. It’s very distinct, rich, full of character, and of excellent quality. The 2007 Reserva is their most elegant wine, an outstanding blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% old vine Grenache, 14% Petite Sirah, and 6% Merlot, aged in new French oak barrels for 12 months, retails for $650 ps.
These remarkable wines can be enjoyed in their charming tasting room, decorated with classic Spanish-style handmade furniture located in a 110 year old reconstructed adobe Russian house. The tasting room consists of a small wine bar and staffed kitchen, two separate rooms with sitting areas, as well as two separate patios where you can enjoy wine and cheese platter service. Tastings are by appointment only and are for a maximum of 8 people per tasting. Van tours are available, guided by either Nathan himself or a local wine writer for the Baja Times.
The bed and breakfast facility is one of the most charming settings in the valley. Centered in a courtyard that features a cantina, private kitchen and dinning area with fireplace is most attractive and addictive. Visitors can cook their own meals in the fully stocked kitchen or have a local chef cater to their gourmet culinary desires. A 36 inch plasma television with Direct TV satellite and original handmade furniture compliment the dinning area. Four deluxe room options are available to meet your specific needs.The suite named the “Grenache Suite” features one queen bed, large private bathroom and spacious living room area with sofa. This room also features a private patio looking out into the beautiful private gardens. The “Green Room” includes one queen size bed, private bathroom and balcony with a sitting area offering a majestic view of the mountain range. The “Blue Room” includes two full size beds with one private bathroom and balcony with sitting area featuring a view of the mountain range. Many guests rent the entire complex to host family, friends and clients. Be warned that one visit to this amazing B&B maybe the beginning of a long term relationship with the ranch, the friendly Malagon family and their incredible wines.
Visit their web site for details, directions and reservation information. The Malagon family is generous in sharing their traditional family values along with their love of the valley. Come and explore their award-winning wine and discover the beauty and depth of quality old vine Grenache wine and more! With the future of Mexican wines in the hands of young and ambitious ““vino desperadoes” such as Nathan Malagon and Jose Luis Durant ~ the possibilities are endless....
Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Guadalupe Valley where he guides private and small group wine tours. He can be reached at your local Costa Baja Hotel Tour.
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Article Originally Posted on Mexidata.info
